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Uncovering Hermannsburg's History: Day 3 of the 100% Finke River Cultural Tour

Rhiannon Clarke -

Day three of the 100% Finke River Cultural Tour was dedicated to exploring the rich history of Hermannsburg.

We set off early for Finke Gorge National Park, anticipating a day of discovery. Our guide, Benji Kenny, had something special in store—a mystery that had puzzled him for years. What we were about to encounter would add another layer of intrigue to the ancient Finke River.

Just off the riverbank, Mr Kenny led us to something extraordinary— what appears to be a single footprint etched into the rocks, preserved through time. This silent imprint served as a powerful reminder of those who walked this land long before us.

Mr Kenny speculated that the owner of the footprint must have stepped out of the river and slipped slightly in the mud, which is why the footprint appeared elongated.

"You can see where the person stepped forward and then stepped back," he said.

Footprint (Image: Rhiannon Clarke)

The Finke River, believed to be 350 million years old, is considered one of the oldest rivers in the world.

Mr Kenny raised an intriguing question: "When they say the Finke River is the oldest in the world, the big question is—why is there a human sandal print on the stone slab by the river?"

"People say humans have been around for hundreds of thousands of years, but how do you explain a sandal on a stone slab, if the Finke River is millions of years old? So, what's the actual truth?"

Not far from the mysterious footprint, further up the rocky road, lies Palm Valley—a unique oasis within Finke Gorge National Park. This hidden gem is home to the Central Australian red cabbage palm, Livistona mariae, which occurs exclusively in and around the park.

Remarkably, it's the only palm species found in Central Australia, isolated by 100 km from its closest relatives, making it a rare and extraordinary sight in the arid landscape.

"The scientist tested the palm trees…and they said 100 percent DNA, they are the exact same palm trees from up near Katherine," Mr Kenny said.

"They said the palm trees were brought here around 30,000 but I think more than 30,000 as well, so it could've been—maybe 60,000 or 70,000 years."

The mystery of how the palms came to Mpulungkinya has sparked various theories over the years. One popular, though now largely discounted, theory suggested that Livistona mariae was a remnant of a wetter past, left behind in the sheltered oasis as Australia became more arid over a million years ago.

Cycads, Palm Valley (Image: Rhiannon Clarke)

Other theories propose that the palms were introduced by First Nations people over 15,000 years ago as a valuable food resource. Another possibility is that the seeds were carried by birds—perhaps pelicans—during their long migrations in response to changing food availability.

Scientists continue to study these ancient palms, analysing their structure and DNA to search for answers, but the true origins of the palms remain an enduring mystery of this remarkable landscape.

The last stop of the day—and the tour as a whole—was the Hermannsburg Historic Precinct. This site is a treasure trove of stories and historical artefacts, offering a deep dive into the rich past of the region.

The Hermannsburg Historic Precinct was home to many notable figures, including German missionary Carl Strehlow, who was deeply loved by the community, and Arrernte painter Albert Namatjira.

Mr Namatjira is widely regarded as one of Australia's most prominent artists, a pioneer of contemporary Indigenous Australian art, and one of the most famous Indigenous Australians of his generation.

Albert Namatjira portrait (Image: Rhiannon Clarke)

The Hermannsburg Historic Precinct includes the boys' dormitory where Mr Namatjira stayed during his schooling, built around 1900. An interesting fact is that, despite the segregation into dormitories, the children attending the school were not far removed from their families, who lived in nearby huts.

The people of Hermannsburg take pride in their mission history, highlighting that, due to the mission's approach, there is no Stolen Generation legacy associated with their community.

"Anytime the government sent out a letter to the mission saying 'we are coming out to see if there is any half cast coloured children', the families would either take the camels and they would go and some would hide in the basement," said Mr Kenny.

"Hermannsburg was the only place that was against the Stolen Generation."

It made for a moving conclusion to what was three remarkable days learning about the rich history of the area with 100% Finke River Culture and Adventure, a proudly Indigenous-owned tourism enterprise.

Note: The author was a guest of the 100% Finke River Culture and Adventure and Intrepid Travel.

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National Indigenous Times