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A Journey Through Time and Tradition: Day 2 of the 100% Finke River Cultural Tour

Rhiannon Clarke -

Day Two of the 100% Finke River Cultural Tour took us even deeper into the heart of cultural understanding; from ancient traditions to the stories of the land, every moment revealed something profound.

First stop was Tnorala (Gosse Bluff), a place of incredible geological and cultural significance. Due to this, our tour guide Benjamin Kenny stepped back for one moment and let his travel companions Ronnie and Nelson take the lead to share their history as they are connected to Tnorala land.

With its massive asteroid crater, Tnorala was once a sacred gathering place for Indigenous people. It holds a deep connection to the stars, with bush foods said to have been created by grinding special rocks that fell from the sky—known as the Milky Way Baby.

The body of this celestial baby, represented by these stones, carried sacred stories about food and other important aspects of life, passed down through generations.

The creation of the crater itself happened about 142 million years ago, when a comet approximately 1 km in diameter collided with Earth, releasing energy one million times greater than the atomic bomb dropped on Hiroshima.

Tnorala (Gosse Bluff) (Image: Rhiannon Clarke)

Today, the inner core of Gosse Bluff is about five km in diameter. Its floor is littered with shatter cones, which can be observed in the area. The asteroid crater is the most studied impact structure in Australia.

However, the grounds where the creator lies is also a place of sorrow. Long before colonisation, it was the site of a massacre. According to the story, one morning, a man had climbed the rocks to hunt kangaroos.

When he returned, he found a devastating scene—his entire community, including men, women, and children, had been killed. He knew immediately that the Kadaitcha men were responsible. Overcome with grief, he alerted families, who lived along the nearby ranges.

Together, they pursued the killers, who had come from the desert south of Tnorala. Before the Kadaitcha men could return to their own community, they were caught and met with the same fate.

After the massacre, Tnorala became what the First Nations people call a 'sorry' place. It's a site of deep grief and respect, where no one has lived since, and the land serves as a permanent reminder of the tragic loss of an entire community.

The second stop on our agenda was Roma Gorge, home to one of Central Australia's most impressive collections of rock engravings, or petroglyphs. This sacred site lies on Tjilpa (quoll) land and holds deep significance for various Aboriginal groups, serving as a cultural link between them.

In the past, Roma Gorge was more than just a place of beauty—it was a reliable waterhole, a camping spot, and a location for important ceremonies that continued until the 1920s.

Rock art engravings. (Image: Rhiannon Clarke)

The Western Aranda custodians share that some of the petroglyphs were created by their human ancestors, while others were made by spirits during the Dreamtime. Comparisons with other engravings dated elsewhere suggest that some of these markings could be as old as 6,000 to 8,000 years, making them a powerful link to the region's ancient past.

Before entering the area where the rock art lies, Mr Kenny sang out to the spirits to let them know of our arrival, welcoming us into their sacred site. The rock arts showed various symbols and told many stories like the seven dancing sisters.

"Many other Dreamtime stories travel through here," he said.

"There are still a lot of places like this that are hidden, yet to be found."

The Western Aranda custodians believe Roma Gorge is a place that has always brought people together. Today, they see it as a space where Aboriginal and non-Aboriginal people can connect, fostering a deeper understanding and respect for each other's cultures and histories.

Our final stop of the day was Ormiston Gorge, where we took a refreshing swim in the cool waters of the Finke River, surrounded by towering walls of rugged mountain ranges. The breathtaking landscape and peaceful atmosphere made it the perfect way to end a day rich in culture and connection.

It was the perfect way to conclude Day 2 of the tour with this stellar Indigenous-owned tourism enterprise; 100% Finke River Culture & Adventure.

Note: The author was a guest of the 100% Finke River Culture and Adventure and Intrepid Travel.

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National Indigenous Times